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Chateau-Eza-IMG_8185Full Moon and a view on St Jean Cap Ferrat

Chateau-Eza-IMG_8198An excellent place for Super Yacht spotting, here the 90m Lauren L, built in 2002 in Germany

Last year we took a few days off from our hectic life as hoteliers to visit the south of France.

I was able to make a last minute reservation for one night in a suite of the magnificent Chateau Eza.

However, there are a couple of things to note:

  • Eza is the old name for Eze. It is a little picturesque medieval and hence car free village on a rock approximately 500m above sea level with a magnificent view of the Mediterranean. It is the first village west from Monaco and not far from Nice and Nice Airport. It is draped like an Eagle’s Nest on a steep hill. Hotel Chateau Eza is situated on top of the village, about 20 minutes walking on a steep uphill path, partly with stairs. It’s an excellent place for Yacht spotting.
  • If you travel by car like we do, you should be aware that Eze village is a bit of a tourist trap with few parkings. On busy days it is hardly possible to park your car somewhere in the neighborhood of the entrance to the village. Many buses drop by. If you want to make a day trip by car to for instance Monaco or Nice, it takes about 1/2 hour before you reach your car and you have no guarantee you’ll find a parking spot when you return after your trip.
  • Eze can be foggy, even if the rest of the Riviera is sun blazed. Just be aware of this, if you booked for the view as we did.
  • They run an excellent restaurant, but they don’t give hotel guests a guaranteed seat for a session in the restaurant, what amazed me for a 10 rooms only hotel.
  • Checking in into the hotel is a somewhat peculiar experience, as there is a little office for the concierge in the main street not far from the car park, approximately a mile downhill form the hotel entrance itself. The hotel site is not clear about this feature. It should be in my opinion. The confirmation of the reservation gives some directions, but are not very clear. The porter does a good job bringing your luggage to the hotel. All in all it took us 2 hours from arrival by car until we were checked in.
  • Friends of us stayed somewhere in the not too distant neighborhood, and we would have liked them to meet us at the hotel for lunch, however when we were settled Eza had closed the kitchen, notwithstanding they advertise, even today, on their site: Tapas service and à la carte salads are served from 12h30 to 18h00. Moreover with a 5 stars rating you may expect 24/7 room service for tapas and salads. No flexibility at all and that annoyed me most.
  • As a final observation: The neighborhood is rocky. On the night vision photo above you look West and see the light glow of Nice behind the hill and the traffic on the secondary road. It means if there is no wind, there is a lot of traffic noise amplified by the steep rocks around. Traffic goes on all night.

All in all it was quite an, but not so quiet, experience which I won’t repeat.

Chateau-Eza-IMG_8207

After a wonderful, but bit hazy, breakfast on the terrace we left for the Burgundy region.

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Ouch, it is one of the most amazing opening of the year – Mondrian, SoHo, New York by Benjamin Noriega-Ortiz. Mondarian is already a notoriously famous one, frankly speaking, it is upscale, famous, trendy and a bit ridiculous.

mondrian-garden-sml
Room Renderings
  blog it

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Ian Schrager

According to Chicago Business Ian Schrager is negotiating with the present owners to buy the 285-room Ambassador East with its “Pump Room” restaurant at 1301 N. State Pkwy in Chicago. Not really a “boutique” size property I would say. But comments are that he could be the man to re energize this 1926 built landmark hotel.

East Ambassador Chicago Pump Room Bar

Reportedly Peter Dumon and David Bossy, the present owners, have settled on a $25-million offer from Ian. Together with a former local partner they paid $44.5 million for the hotel in December 2005. What a sumptuous loss for a sumptuous hotel!

Am curious whether this acquisition will breath some new life in the Marriott – Schrager partnership named Edition Hotels that was announced with a lot of pomp in January, 2009 and not much in the news lately.

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It is really refreshing when you are sitting at a conference with presentations and discussions of travel and hospitality and tech types who only seem interested in their good self or their own product or service and are not outgoing and not interested in the guest, their clientèle, or only maybe in the money of the guest, to get a presentation of a really passionate couple. James Lohan and Tamara Heber-Percy (see also my interview with Tamara) , the husband and wife who founded the Mr and Mrs Smith Collections under the caption: Luxury and Romance meet Technology.

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Yes, I agree. It’s all about Respect!

They both come from a completely different background than travel and hospitality. Again their success shows that innovations in this industry frequently come from those outside the industry.

They started out with the production of the Mr & Mrs Smith guides. They described their difficulties with getting the guides published. Never before was a guide produced with one editor and one photographer for all properties. Eventually they decided to pyblish the guide all by themselves. The interesting thing is that added to the guides is a Mr and Mrs Smith membership card which gives the holder some extras as upgrades or a little present from their shop. That gives the brand a tremendous crowd to source from.

They are adamant about the properties being inspected by themselves or a member of their team of +40 in the meantime, because they strongly believe you cannot review a hotel properly without having experienced the look and feel of the place. In addition they sometimes team up with unusual partners for the hotel industry like lingerie brands. They also understand that you sometimes want to stay in a self catering accommodation or luxury chalet, rather than a hotel.

They seamlessly have merged their Blog (in the air since July 2005) into their main site. However Tamara was already out there scoring whatever was said about the brand in 2004: Shortly after I became aware of their guides via a post of my fellow editor Willem Vos at the Dutch language Weekend Hotel Blog she already commented there – note the date of the comment is not correct, as Willem had some problems in 2008 to migrate the blog to his new platform running on Ruby on Rail…whatever that may be, but I know I made the comment already in 2004-.

Here you see some footage of one of the rather unconventional and hilarious ad they presented at the keynote.

If even Gesa Noormann of Escapio says in a comment under Kevin’s Travolution coverage of the presentation:

Thanks Kevin for the fab article. Despite the fact that Mr and Mrs Smith are Escapio’s UK competitor, I can’t deny that their presentation was fantastic!

then you know your presentation was good even if you were dead tired.

Some personal notes:
I don’t understand jot from what Kevin’s caption means: “Corporate Barbarism does not begin at home say The Smiths”, but that could be my Dunglish.

If you are curious to see who the guy behind Escapio is look here. Even if I say it myself, I like the picture.

I think Willem should start talking with the two portfolios mentioned here, Mr & Mrs Smith and Escapio, or alternatively they should start talking with Willem, to see if there are possibilities to team up to cover The Netherlands and Belgium better than they do now separately.

Added March 24, 2009:

Via twitter I got the link of the same video on their site: Mr & Mrs Smith | Get a Room!. It has a bit better quality than the YouTube one

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Recently the $200 million 335-room and condos hotel Mondrian Miami South Beach opened during Art Basel. Its design is by Dutch designer Marcel Wanders.

The Hotel site of the Mondrian starts wit the same video you can find on Youtube:

Luckily you can skip the intro. I do not like video’s on a Hotel website as a starter. First and foremost I like photos and lay out plans of rooms. For one reason or another the photos on the Mondrian Miami hotel site are still images from the design stadium…no real photos yet.

The video is part interview with Marcel Wanders. IMHO he should take some English presentation lessons.

An extensive interview in Fastcompany’s online magazine gives more insight about Marcel Wanders, Fast Company’s designer of 2008.

Off course the opening party was enhanced by the Happy Hour Chandelier about which project I reported earlier here

I wonder Wanders, why didn’t he built on the name Mondrian? The Dutch Style Icon that was the inspiration for Morgan’s first Mondrian Hotel in L.A. Then maybe the plain outside of this Hotel at least could have been a bit more … flamboyant…or flashy

Before the LA Mondrian became a Morgan Hotel Group Hotel, it was family owned and featured a real Mondrian painting that inspired its name…probably lost underway…..

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Although many of us are tightening our budgets and spending less this year, some people out there are continuing to indulge themselves. One example: at an international auction that took place this past Saturday an Italian white truffle sold for $200,000. The tuber weighed just over 2 lbs and was bought by casino mogul Stanley Ho from Hong Kong, who must really love truffles because he bought another enormous white truffle last year at a similar auction for $330,000.

Climate change is largely to blame for the rising price of truffles, since they grow naturally in forests (and aren’t commercially cultivated) they’ve been particularly susceptible to Italy’s recent mix of drought and torrential rains.

Truffle Sells at Auction for $200,000 – Luxist

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Without fluids man is doomed to die. Why not treat our basic necessity with the respect it deserves? Fort Knox is a luxurious wine rack reserved for a single bottle, a gilded cage for the most precious bubbly.

A unique design, as each object is numbered by hand. The hammered-in digits adorn the golden halter like a beautiful scar, playfully flirting with the logo’s engraved letters. Its simple structure, bearing resemblance to the basic wooden archetype, is just a trick to fool the over-stimulated mind.

Fort Knox doesn’t need to scream for attention with ornamental curls and provocative patterns; its decadence and weight show off just by being there – or by an attempt to lift the five hefty kilos for that matter. Beauty is ensconced in the perfect finish, precise inscription and frugal make-up. It’s the peach at each banquet, the pièce de resistance at every table, the icing on the metaphorical cake. Eat as much cake you like, since gold will never lose its value.

Fort Knox (2008) | Sietze Kalkwijk

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Happy to introduce Pam Mandel of Nerd’s Eye View to you!


Pam Mandel of Nerd’s Eye View at a Bloggers Meet up

1) Who Are you?

I’m a (currently) Seattle based freelance writer. I make 90% of my living as a technical writer. This means I explain complicated technical stuff (primarily software, but sometimes hardware) in terms that make sense to the people that need to use that complicated technical stuff. I do some consulting with websites that want to reach travelers – I was on the advisory board for a photo sharing site and I’ve just signed on to the advisory board for a travel related web service. Typically, this means a company asks for my opinion about their site, how it works, what would entice travelers (or photographers) to use it, that sort of thing – and I give it to them. It’s fun and I like to flatter myself that I’m something of a triple threat there -as a professional nerd I get technology, as a traveler who loves the web I have a lot to say about what appeals and as a writer, I can articulate what I think. Sometimes I feel a little sorry for the folks I advise, but hey, that’s what they hired me for!

I do a modest sideline in travel writing. I’ve worked on two guidebooks (Hawaii & Vancouver/British Columbia), sold a few stories to web and print publications, and recorded two broadcast stories for a National Public Radio station.

I live with my Austrian husband – who I met at the campground at Uluru in Australia – in a house with brightly colored rooms. We can walk to the beach from our door, it’s great fun to go down there at low tide. I play the ukulele with more enthusiasm than skill, am an enthusiastic home cook, take way too many photos, and love to write.

2) What do you like about what you do?

On the tech side, I enjoy getting to see new technology before it hits the market and being part of making new things. The people I work with are smart and creative and fun. I’m project based, so every time I start a new project, I learn something new. I really appreciate that the nature of my work dovetails perfectly with travel – I work on nice meaty tech projects, fill the bank account, then spend my money traveling! It’s a system that works.

On the travel side, I love to write travel stories and I love to take pictures, I just love it. I genuinely enjoy the people I meet through travel contacts, not just fellow travelers, but the industry people too. They’re good company and they seem to understand my crazy priorities.

3) What don’t you like about what you do?

Tech work can be all consuming and stressful, there’s no denying it. And as a travel writer, I’m frustrated by the low paid opportunities, the difficulty in getting work published, the extremely long lead times… I’m sure that’s nothing new.

4) Please tell us all about your blog and your aims with it.

I started blogging when I was an expat in Austria – it helped me tell stories to my friends and family back in the States and kept me from losing my mind – I was in a small town with no expat community. That was my initial goal – stay sane – but it turned out I couldn’t shut up. For a while I blogged about American politics – I spent a lot of time as a volunteer during the 2004 US presidential election – and then, I refocused on what I really like – stories about places.

My ignorance about the travel market meant that I was completely content self publishing my own stories at Nerd’s Eye View. But opportunities found me and my blog became, in addition to an outlet for my need to tell stories, a portfolio of what I could do with the written word or my camera. I recently added the Travelblogger’s Forum to my site to provide a community for people like me who want to grow their blogs into something more.

I have this fantasy that some day, I will live the luxurious life of a pro-travel-blogger, but I know it’s just a fantasy. I’m lucky to like the work that pays my bills, so it doesn’t kill me to accept that “making my living 100% from blogging” is unlikely.

5) Your top 3 destination experiences you’ve ever stayed to date and why?

Oh, this is so hard. I love Hawaii – we were married there and I have a real affection for the islands. Hawaii is so friendly, the landscape so beautiful, the hodge podge of cultures makes for good food… I was in Cambodia earlier this year and it kind of cracked me open – I was so taken with the people, so heart broken by the history, and of course, Angkor Wat is amazing. I went to art school and I’ve wanted to go there since I sat through that slide show in my Asian art history class. Finally, and closer to home, I never get tired of the Olympic Peninsula – the giant trees, the rugged Pacific coastline, the unpredictable weather. I’ve been there dozens of times and every time I fall in love with it all over again.


Boy Selling Travel Guides at Angkor Wat

6) Your top 3 accommodations you’ve ever stayed to date and why?

I did a story on luxury hotels in Vienna and we stayed at the Hotel Imperial. The bathroom floors were heated marble, the breakfast was spectacular, our view of the Ringstrasse was unbeatable and Vienna in winter is so romantic.

While working on the Hawaii guidebook our first stop was at Kona Village Resort, an all inclusive beach front development where you get your own, standalone “hale” – I almost burst in to tears when we left.


Flaming cocktails at Kona Village Resort

But that’s deluxe stuff. I’ve also slept out on a tarp under the stars in the Australian outback and woken up to a pale pink sky and a symphony of birdsong – I had never experienced anything like before and haven’t since. And in case your readers are winking and saying, “Oh, she was in love,” this was before arriving at Uluru, I hadn’t met my mate yet.

7) Your top 3 most memorable food experiences to date and why?

Memorable doesn’t necessarily mean good, right? We ate at a place in Saigon that served us some of the most mysterious food I’ve ever had the pleasure of being confronted with. Things were fishy or gummy or salty or just unrecognizable. This was a rather nice place, the open kitchen was immaculate, the staff in white shirts and bow ties, but I was way out of my element as far as food is concerned.

I’ve written extensively about the Fachertorte served at the Kunsthistoriches Museum in Vienna. My mouth is watering just mentioning it. I am a fan of pastry, the Austrians do it so well. And this Fachertorte? It makes me lose my mind. I would like a piece right now. It’s poppy seeds, apples, almonds all wrapped in a flaky brioche like crust… oh. It’s to die for!


Desserts in the window of the Demel in Vienna:

In Honolulu, we ate at a place called Chef Mavro’s that serves Hawaii Regional Cuisine – let’s hope I get this concept right – the idea being to take local fresh ingredients and interpret them in the chef’s style. The chef was born in Greece, grew up in Marseilles and now lives in Hawaii. We had the tasting menu, paired with carefully selected wines and it was spectacular. My normally laconic husband called this meal “fireworks for the mouth.” I could taste the food – elegant but not fussy and served on small plates – in every part of my mouth. Stunning.

And yes, we’re back in Hawaii. It’s a theme, I guess.

8) Your 3 worst destination/ accommodation /food experiences to date and why?

While preparing to cross the Himalayas in India, I stayed in a hotel in Kargil and awoke covered, head to toe, in bright red welts from bed bugs. That’s pretty bad.

On arrival in Hanoi with a splitting headache of migraine like proportions, we checked to a room that was freezing cold, had a rock hard bed, and where a crew was performing sledge hammer demolition on the other side of the wall. That was unfortunate.

But by far the worst was a hotel/pension in the Westerwald in Germany where the place stunk to the high heavens of boiled meat. The place was spotless and it’s not like we were uncomfortable, at all, but the next day we fled, top speed, into the fresh air. The intense smell was making me horribly queasy. The dining room was full of taxidermied animals, the staff had a certain terrifying edginess, and it took very little imagination to transform the place from rustic hunter friendly lodge to slasher film set. “What happened to Herr Schmidt? He was so charming at dinner last night.” “Ah, he went for a walk. I mean, uh, he checked out. Yes. Checked out. Will you be having the homemade sausages?” Yikes. I couldn’t wait to get out of there.

9) Can you offer the readers 3 travel/ food / accommodation / things to do tips about the city you are currently living in?

Our neighborhood – West Seattle – is a great place to bring new visitors to town. It has a funky beach town feel, something you don’t expect from a city in the Pacific Northwest and as a former California girl, I love that about it. We have a truly spectacular French bakery, Bakery Nouveau, where we take our guests for treats, and then, we go walk on the beach. The views of downtown are gorgeous and it’s a great introduction to our city.


View from Alki Beach near our house at sunset:

If the time of year is right – and sometimes, even when it’s not, we take visitors to the Ballard Locks to see the salmon in the fish ladder. You can’t be in the Pacific Northwest for any period of time without learning about the salmon and the fish ladder is an entertaining place to learn about their life cycle. It’s really close to an excellent fish and chips joint, which I get is a little morbid, but it’s fun.

There’s one really touristy thing that I recommend – I’ve done it myself a few times and always enjoyed it – the Seattle Underground Tour. It’s a little weird to suggest that your out of town guests go touring the basements of a bunch of brick turn of the century buildings, but Seattle has a crazy colorful history and the guides that run the tour are terrific story tellers. It’s great fun.

But Seattle is a fantastic city, so limiting it to only three is nearly impossible. I don’t mind at all if you (or your readers!) look me up and ask me for advice, should you be traveling my way. I love showing visitors around.

10) Any Question(s) you’d expected me to ask that you would like to answer?

You didn’t ask me where I’d like to go next! If money were no object, I’d be off to Ethiopia like a shot. I saw an exhibit recently about Lucy, she’s the ancient human predecessor who was found in Ethiopia. I thought the show would be all geology and fossil science, but as we entered, there was a lot about the history and culture of Ethiopia. I was enchanted and now, I really want to go. Sadly, it’s VERY far away from where I sit, so airfare alone is quite prohibitive. Here’s hoping the fates send me there.

We’re hoping to spend some time in Hawaii this winter and there’s a long shot I’ll go to Panama in early December. But anything could happen, that’s the great and terrible thing about travel.

My Observations:
Pam, Thank you for being part of this series. Now you’ve made me even more curious. Where can I find your tech writing?

On the photo front: I have chosen a portrait that I believe although not technically correct features you the best from what I have seen. It’s curious how avid photographers usually don’t have a lot of portraits from themselves. Ha and I hope you won’t flame me about this choice:-)

You didn’t add me to your contacts on Flickr, and since your copyright protection is mostly “on”, but I got around that with a nifty gadget called WebKut that I recently found and that unlike earlier versions of Piclens still let you work around the Flickr copy right protection…

There must be a world, no two worlds of difference between Seattle on the one hand and Aigen against the Czech border. Must be a lot of German influence there as well.

Finally you inspired me to to make a note to self to upload some of my my own Demel photos to Flickr…

To all:
Don’t forget to visit Pam’s Travelblogger’s Forum

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RandstadRail. Photo by Dennis Holtkamp

RandstadRail is a light rail initiative to have quick public transport between the two cities The Hague and Rotterdam. The idea is RandstadRail can use both the tram rail and the train rail network. The only problem is that they are much wider and heavier than ordinary trams. A fact that the The Hague Municipality played down heavily when we organized a protest when the City planned to have RandstadRail driving through our very narrow part of the Laan Meerdervoort in The Hague. Then they claimed our protests were mere NIMBY (“Not In My Back Yard”) protests.

My main complaint is that our part of the long Laan Van Meerdervoort is too narrow for Randstadrail.
What happened yesterday evening proved me right again:


RandstadRail crashes two taxis in one

A TV crew was shooting an interview with a foreign Prince in our small luxe hotel, Haagsche Suites, for a BBC series to be broad casted in spring 2009.
After the shooting I had ordered two taxis, one for the Prince and one for the crew. We had just loaded the crew’s gear, cameras, lighting equipment and tripods in the first taxi. We were saying good bye to the party on the sidewalk. All of a sudden we heard two enormous bangs: RandstadRail had crashed into the second taxi with such speed that the second taxi was smacked at least 5 meter further against taxi number one.


The poor driver of the second taxi in dire need of a replacement car.

I am very glad nobody was standing between the two taxis when it happened and luckily there were no personal injuries. This is not the first time this happens in front of our hotel. A couple of weeks ago RandstadRail crashed a car with a whole family inside it….not sure they didn’t have any whiplash injury then.

Now I really can say I am “Royally” Fed up with RandstadRail!

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Porsche Design is teaming up with Singapore-based yacht concern Royal Falcon Fleet on a new line of luxury catamarans and megayachts. The companies’ initial collaborative project will be a high-tech 135-ft. motor catamaran, dubbed the RFF135 (above), to be sold under the Royal Falcon Fleet brand. Porsche Design will design both the exterior hull and the interior of the megayacht, which is expected to do 35 knots and retail in the millions. Royal Falcon Fleet, which dubs its craft “the ultimate in billionaire boys’ toys,” has engaged cutting edge Swedish-based marine engineering firm Kockums and Australian catamaran builder Incat Crowther for the project’s naval architecture needs. No word yet on a completion date.

Porsche to Design New Luxury Yachts – Luxist

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